A-Z of Majuro

Here’s my A-Z of Majuro … it’s a snapshot of some of the best things on offer around town. Got more ideas? Please send them on down! Karen

A panel of tools and related illustrations in the Alele Museum. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the Alele Museum and Library in Uliga next to the Court House. The museum, located on the ground floor, was recently renovated and is a must-visit venue. The exhibits include the traditional clothing mats called jaki-ed, navigation instruments, and turn-of-the-century photographs by Joachim deBrum. Upstairs is the bright and cheerful library, which features a children’s reading room and a Pacific section. Phone: (692) 625-3372. More info on this site.

The premier accommodation for visitors are the RRE Hotel shoreside bungalows. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the bungalows at RRE Hotel, which are some of the nicest places to stay on the island. The ones that sit alongside the waterfront are the best. For reservations, call hotel manager Colette Reimers on (692) 625-6474 or her cell phone (692) 455-7248.

Cruisers from the yachts Jaramon, Opus, and Figment at Chit-Chat. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the Chit-Chat restaurant in the Marshall Islands Club on the back road in Uliga. Its three best features are the ocean view, a cool breeze and the pizzas. For lunch, you can order a pocket pizza for just $5: It’s a folded over piece of dough with your choice of three ingredients, plus the cheese and sauce. The accompanying bar is a Marshallese hang out that stays open late, especially on Fridays and Saturdays, so this is the place for a late-night snack.

A coral garden in Majuro lagoon. Photo: Dean Jacobson

is for the world-class diving in and around Majuro! Despite the fact that Majuro is the country’s largest population center, with about 28,000 residents, the waters are remarkably clear and rich in sea life, especially on the ocean sides and at the main pass, Kalalin. There is one full-time dive operation: Raycrew, managed by Hiro Ueda based at the Marshall Islands Resort (625-2739 email info@raycrew.jp, www.raycrew.jp). More info on this site. If you are a certified diver and have the basic gear, Cary Evarts can take you around Majuro or over to Arno on his sports boat Wasabi. Email him at caryevarts@yahoo.com and ask for a custom package.

The dock at Enemanet Island. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for Enemanet and Eneko, two beautiful islands on the northern side of Majuro lagoon just four or five miles from downtown. The eastern portion of Enemanet is owned by the Kramer family, who also own the biggest construction business in Majuro, Pacific International Inc. (PII). They welcome visitors, but they do ask that you book in advance at their office in Delap and pay the small fee of $25. Eneko is owned by the Reimers family, who also have the Hotel RRE in Uliga. They also welcome guests who can book at the Hotel reception. Eneko has a stand-alone house plus share accommodation for up to six people and a cookhouse. Both islands have moorings for yachts that were built and are maintained by the Mieco Beach Yacht Club (www.sailingmarshallislands.com). Phone PII: (692) 625-3122. Phone RRE Hotel: (692) 6215-3250.

Team Wasabi weighs in a marlin and holds the tag-and-release award. The boat is on the right. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for all the fabulous fish that can be caught or bought. For the freshest fish experience, you can go fishing with Cary Evarts on his sports boat Wasabi (caryevarts@yahoo.com). Or you can buy your fishy treats at the big supermarkets, that sell fresh or frozen ocean fish and reef fish. For reef fish brought in from the nearby atolls, you can go to MISCo opposite the Alele museum and library or the Outer Islands Fish Market at Uliga Dock, which is managed by the Marine Resources Authority (MIMRA). For queries, call MIMRA on 692-625-8262 or go to the MIMRA web site.

Author and editor Giff Johnson and his recently published book Idyllic No More.

is for Giff Johnson, the editor of the independent Marshall Islands Journal and author of Don’t Ever Whisper and Idyllic No More, amongst other titles. Giff has lived in Majuro since 1984. As well as being in a key role at the must-read weekly Journal (www.marshallislandsjournal.com), he has a specific interest in the nuclear issues and has a Facebook page called Giff Johnson’s Marshall Islands Nuclear News. Check out his books on this site’s book page.

Baskets collected by the boat Arc Tracer as they cruised RMI. Photo: Jerry Hickson

is for the handicrafts made by the ladies of RMI. They are some of the most beautiful and durable handicrafts found in the region. They range from baskets to wall hangings of all shapes, including the beautiful turtle hangings, and hats and jewelry. No two pieces are the same, so if you see something you like, buy it because you’ll never see another. There are handicraft stores all around Majuro, with some of the most notable being Happy Hands (opposite RRE Hotel), Elefa store (a hundred yards south of EZ Price Mart), Leipajid Handicraft Shop (opposite Assumption Church, phone (692) 625-6880), and the MISCO store near the library (opposite the MISCO fish store).

The International Conference Center in Delap. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the International Conference Center (ICC), which was opened in October, 2007 and was built by Majuro’s largest contractor, Pacific International, Inc. (PII). The 1,000-seat capacity facility was donated by the Government of the Republic of China-Taiwan (ROC) to the RMI to host the second annual Taiwan-Pacific Allies Summit of the Heads of State from the RMI, ROC, Kiribati, Nauru, Palau, Solomon Islands, and Tuvalu. It’s existence, however, proved vital a few years later when the fourth floor of the now empty Capital Building proved to be unsafe and the President’s Office and Cabinet offices were moved to the ICC’s upper floors. The center is used for regional meetings, workshops, trade shows, and the showing of plays and movies.

Rivel Line sits with Brian Tabto, who is enjoying reading the Marshall Islands Journal on Aur Atoll. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the Journal, the weekly independent newspaper edited by Giff Johnson. While it proudly sells T-shirts proclaiming it is ‘The World’s Worst Newspaper’, it is generally agreed to be a top-notch publication for an extremely small country. The newspaper’s dateline is Friday, but it is printed Wednesday night and the hard copy is sold on Thursdays. You can subscribe to the digital version, the Journal Online, through PayPal (www.paypal.com) where you pay USD$57 using the editor’s email address giffjohnson@gmail.com. The Journal’s web site is www.marshallislandsjournal.com. It also has a link to PayPal to subscribe.

K&K Island Pride Supermarket in Delap, just next to the Capital Building. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for K&K Supermarket (a.k.a. Island Pride), which is owned by the Kramer and Kabua families and is in Delap. It is the largest supermarket on island and (usually, depending on incoming freight) has the best selection of fresh produce. The shelves and freezers are stocked with many American brand food items. Fresh fish, including sashimi, is available in the coolers at the back of the store, next to the dairy section. A bonus is that if you are after a particular item, they’ll be happy to get it in stock, although this may take a few months. The store opens at 7am and shuts between 8pm and 10pm. You can see more on their web site www.kkislandpride.com or call them on (692) 625-3321.

Laura Beach is a great getaway spot at the western end of Majuro. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for Laura Beach, a great place to sit under a tree and enjoy a picnic with the turquoise waters beckoning you to take a dip. The local families keep the place trim and tidy and allow entrance for the modest sum of $1 per person. It’s best to rent a car to get to Laura, which is on the south-western end of Majuro and is about a 45-minute drive from Delap. Taxis are relatively expensive (around $20, but check that with your driver before you hop in). Buses are cheaper at about $5. The trick with the latter is working out when and where to catch your return ride. Do take food and water as there’s not much in the way of western food available in the village. If you want to snorkel, check the tides aren’t at their lowest during your visit.

Handy dandy Mieco Beach Yacht Club beer coozies. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the Mieco Beach Yacht Club (MBYC) and the Marshalls Billfish Club (MBC), which both offer visitors great opportunities for some fun out on the water in and around Majuro Atoll. Yacht club members and friends have dinner each Tuesday on a circuit of four restaurants. Membership gets you lots of discounts around town and access to yacht clubs around the world. I am on the club’s committee, so you can Ask Karen (see tab in menu bar) if you’d like to know anything about the MBYC. The Billfish Club holds tournaments once a month.

The Noniep (Kyle Trevor) grabs LIki (Randon Jack). Photo: Suzanne Chutaro

is for Na Noniep, one of a series of award-winning feature films set in Majuro and made by Jack Niedenthal and Suzanne Chutaro under the banner Microwave Films. They all give a wonderful perspective to the various slices of Majuro life. Na Noniep was the first in a trilogy (it was followed by Laninbwil’s Gift and Yokwe Bartowe). Energized by the success of the trilogy, the pair have to date made two more feature films: Ainikien Jidjid Ilo Bon (The Sound of Crickets at Night) and Jilel (The Calling of the Shell). They can be ordered from Microwave Films’ site. You can watch the trailers and listen to radio interviews with Jack on this site: Locally-Made Movies.

Zipping across Majuro lagoon on a Marshallese canoe. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for is for the traditional outrigger canoes and particularly those found at the Canoe House, a.k.a. Waan Aelon in Majel (Canoes of the Marshall Islands, WAM). The Canoe House is in Delap next to the Marshall Islands Resort. WAM suffered damage from a huge fire in 2022, but you should check with the office to book the ride of your life. Phone: (692) 625-6123. Read more canoe info on this site or visit the Waan Aelon in Majel site.

Palm trees at sunset in Majuro. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the palm trees that silhouette the horizon at night, tell you the state of the breeze by day, and are forever a joy. ‘P’ is also for the Pacific Ocean that surrounds us. Yes, yes, these are not unique to Majuro, but they are such a feature of life on this island, I couldn’t leave them out.

The monthly pub quiz run by the Mieco Beach Yacht club at the Marshall Islands Resort. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for the quiz run once a month by the Mieco Beach Yacht Club at the Marshall Islands Resort. All are welcome to play. Teams are a maximum of four people, entry is $1 per person and the winner takes all … and writes the next month’s quiz (whether or not they are on island for the event).

A riwut zooms across the lagoon. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for riwut canoes, which are often raced oceanside in Uliga. These miniature canoes look flimsy, but can stand up to quite blustery conditions. During bigger races, usually to coincide with Majuro Day, they are sent off from the north side of the atoll and aimed at the Marshall Islands Resort. Amazingly, they often reach their mark! Check out more photos of riwut in action at this link on this site: Riwut Racing • Marshall Islands Guide (infomarshallislands.com)

Delicious yellowfin tuna is available all year. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for sashimi, which is one of the best food deals on Majuro. Just $5 or $6 will buy you a block of yellowfin tuna that’s plenty for two people. The best source of sashimi is K&K Island Pride Supermarket, which almost always has some fresh tuna for sale, but Payless Supermarket also occasionally has it in their fish and meat section.

is for the Tide Table restaurant in RRE Hotel. American sports bar-style, the Tide Table is probably the most popular restaurant on Majuro. It opens at 6:30am for breakfast and closes around midnight, depending on customer numbers. You can book a table by calling (692) 625-3250.

Uliga Dock is the domestic ship base. Photo: Cary Evarts

is for Uliga Dock, which is the domestic wharf for government field trip ships. The road leading to the dock, which is perpendicular to the main road, has a Chinese restaurant called Aliang (for the meat lovers). The dock is also where you’ll find the Outer Island Fish Market (see ‘f’ for fish).

Radio V7AB is housed in the Ministry of Internal Affairs building. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for V7AB, the government radio station found on A.M. 1098 kHz. Tune into the station to get a feel for the Marshallese language and music. If you lose a precious item, head over to V7AB at the Ministry of Internal Affairs building near the Mobil tanks and for a few dollars they will broadcast your message. The success rate is amazing, especially if you add a reward! Phone: (692) 625-8413.

is for Won Hai Shien, a Chinese restaurant on the ‘back road’ opposite the Mobil tanks in Uliga. The relatively large eatery has a couple of private rooms for parties up to 20 people. Their food is delicious and chef/owner Chowy creates particularly good seafood and vegetable dishes. Of note is that the kitchen is always spotless! Our favorite dishes are beef and broccoli (Cary) and fried shrimp and vegetables (me).

A group of children dancing at a church in Uliga. Photo: Giff Johnson

is for Xmas, a time of great celebration in Majuro. For weeks beforehand you will hear the various ‘jepta’ dance groups practicing for the big day. The churches all open early and the festivities go on through the evening and even to the next morning. Dress up and take a wander along the road, stopping at the various churches as you go to listen to the beautiful singing and smile and the dancing.

Ronnie Reimers and Cary Evarts pose with their winning yellowfin tuna on Ronnie’s boat Kirtake. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for yellowfin tuna, which is one of the target fish in the monthly Marshalls Billfish Club tournaments. The club’s record size yellowfin (161 pounds) was caught by Anton deBrum in the July, 1990, tournament. You can buy fresh blocks yellowfin at K&K Island Pride while all restaurants usually have yellowfin sashimi on their menus.

Zories, flip-flops, thongs… whatever you call them, they’re the footwear for Majuro. Photo: Karen Earnshaw

is for zories, the casual footwear worn by pretty much everyone. Want to know how many people are at home? Just count the zories outside a door. Pick up a pair with ‘Majuro’ stamped on them at pretty much any store around town. ‘Z’ is also for

Z END